Little Jimmy's notes from the road, Part 1

SOUTHWEST IDAHO—Sometimes life can get difficult after days and weeks on the road, but not nearly as difficult as life must have been for the crazy bastards who started the westward expansion some 165 years ago.

After a later-than-planned departure from Boise, we found ourselves struggling slowly down US 84 toward Utah. It's surprising to find out new things about another person after living with them for quite sometime, but the road seems to pull new and exciting experiences out of even the most mundane interactions. And sometimes these new revelations aren't always so welcome.

For instance, how was I to know that Caroline had never before in her life encountered "Easy Cheese"—Kraft's ingenious method of aerosolizing processed American cheese into a can that has a handy applicator tip? And how could I have known that such a small can of road-snack pleasure could lead to such discord?

The late start had left me hungry for lunch, but with a schedule to keep, we had no time for a sit-down meal. Instead we nibbled on nuts and berries in the car along the way like Romulus and Remus long separated from their she-wolf's teat. Although sustaining, such natural comestibles are not nearly as satisfying as a large glob of aerosol cheese on a Triscuit cracker. So of course I began demanding that Caroline uncork the Easy Cheese and start it flowing like the mighty Snake River.

After fumbling with the "easy-open" cap, she managed to squeeze about a half a pound of the tangy yellow ambrosia into her lap. The mishap also snapped one of the tongs off the applicator tip, meaning that any attempt to draw a sunny smiley face of cheese onto a cracker would end up making the Triscuit look like it had suffered a mild stroke. Everything on one side of the face was drooping.

Not only that, but our supply of "natural" sodas ended up tasting like water in the bottom of a can dredged up from a cattail-chocked slough near the banks of the Snake River that had been previously spat into by someone chewing stale Copenhagen. So much for road snacks this day.

Just as I was bitching about our misfortune, a sign for Glenns Ferry and the historic Three Islands Crossing for the Oregon Trail distracted me from what was sure to be a 10-minute treatise on rotten luck and gypsy curses bestowed upon my family several generations earlier.

The excellent Three Islands Crossing State Park told the terrible tale of pioneers risking it all trying to cross the expansive Snake River with their families and Prairie Schooners weighted with everything they owned, including, in some cases, children or elderly persons stricken with the Cholera. The fortunate found passage to the other side; others lost everything. Some of the relatives of the unlucky apparently still live in the community of Glenns Ferry, like the little waitress who served us a delicious patty melt after we gave up all hope of sticking to our schedule and resigned ourselves to the fact that we would be reaching Park City well after dark.

After learning that Oregon Trail emigrants spent most of a year eating biscuits and old bacon, our road snacks of nuts and berries and bacon-flavored processed American cheese spread on a festively woven cracker—all washed down with a cold funky-tasting soda—didn't sound so bad after all. It's staggering to think that thousands ventured west in creaky old wagons without cell phones, iPods or Igloo coolers. It amazing that no emigrant dined on Doritos or Lean Cuisine microwave dinners, or called Sunday a success after filling a crock pot full of Little Smokies and a bottle of K.C. Masterpiece just before Nascar on television. Compared to our ancestors, we are a nation of pathetic weaklings.

The museum at Three Islands Crossing also told the terrible tale of how the U.S. Government cheated the Shoshone-Bannock Indians out of their lands and forced their members to march for 500 miles to reservation land. A similar thing happens on a smaller scale today that the Government likes to call "extraordinary Rendition," a euphemism for injustice just like "relocations to reservation land" or the "Indian Child Welfare Act." Like the historic sanctioned mistreatment of Native Americans, people don't like to talk much these days about the sanctioned mistreatment of new "inferior people" under the auspices of the War on Terror. But I digress.

Although I tried my best at the Three Islands Crossing museum, I could offer no consolation to these unwitting players in American history.

The Three Islands Crossing is a testament to True Grit, and each year during the second week of August, the community of Glenns Ferry turns out to re-enact the treacherous river crossings. According to the woman at the museum, some years the players are successful, other years they aren't. And like the emigrants of old, sometimes oxen or mules drown when wagons overturn. We were sorry that our timing for our trip did not coincide with the annual spectacle.

The patty melt and tater tots in the small bar and grill near Glenns Ferry's main street worked their magic, and soon we found ourselves 50 miles to the southeast and off the interstate traveling through rural Idaho. Here farmland dominates the landscape, and homes and farms have changed little since they were first built 100 years ago. Massive fountains of water spew from the craggy volcanic cliffs high above the Snake River valley, cloaking the landscape with lacy liquid doilies of fertility. Ski boats zig and zag up and down the river while registered Herefords graze lazily on emerald fields of grass.

This is Mennonite Country out here on Highway 30, home to robust-looking peaceful folk. In Buhl, Idaho, we stopped in at a local dairy for a late-afternoon milkshake. It was rich and creamy. Perhaps a little too rich and creamy. Soon we found ourselves driving into Utah with queasy bellies awash in butter fat, wishing for a strong cup of coffee or a two-hour nap.

Somewhere along the way we came across a scene that seemed to echo our sentiments for the day. A rusting old car and several submerged pieces of farm equipment lay abandoned in a sea of what could very well have been natural soda pop. There was no explanation for the mysterious watery graveyard, just the steady twittering of red-winged blackbirds in the bright, hot sunlight.

As we made our way to Park City, we thought seriously about getting a milkshake at every milkshake establishment we passed. And in this region of the country, they were as common as 3.2 beer. I bet Caroline that I could down two more shakes before I erupted with an dishonorable discharge. She bet I could only muster one. We wondered what fraction of one we could down if we asked the shake vendor to add a half a cup of chopped onions? Unfortunately we'll never know.

The darkness concealed the snootiness and rampant, out-of-control development of Park City, but we would soon discover those things along with miles and miles of fabulous biking trails later on.

For now we were content to sleep the sleep of weary emigrants after a very, very long day.

See you on down the road.

Bye bye, Boise

Part III: In which we learn saying goodbye is difficult

BOISE, Idaho—Our final day in Boise began at the crack of dawn at a trailhead near town to meet Al and his two remarkable Hungarian Vizsla dogs for a quick morning ride.

The foothill-area trails in Boise are buff and fast, with just enough climbing to let you know that you've taken a ride, but enough downhill sections to give you a thrill ride that you won't soon forget. Without the buildings in the distance, you might think you were out riding in Fruita if you were blindfolded—a style of bike riding that I can't recommend.

Smoke from the California forest fires had cloaked the Boise valley in a thick pale haze, and the EPA had issued an air quality yellow-alert for the day, making it perfect for riding. At this early hour, the temperature was hovering a pleasant 30 degrees lower than the 100-degree temperatures we had been experiencing since our arrival. The humidity was low, as was the angle of the sun, so we were in for a fabulous morning on two wheels.

Many others had taken advantage of the cool morning temperatures, so the area was pretty well-used that day. Al told us that undercover police officers had been hanging out near the trail heads for the past few days, issuing citations to anyone who failed to pick up poop left behind by their dogs. Unfortunately for Al, the two Vizslas hadn't been run for a few days, so they were extremely excited to be out on the trails; he used more than one of the plastic bags he had brought in the first couple of miles. The dogs didn't seem to mind.

You meet some really cool people biking, and Al was no exception. He rode easy and carefree on his custom rigid 29er (with an internal hub, not a singlespeed). The eager red Vizslas were obviously used to riding, so they hung close to the bikes, but not too close, giving us plenty of room to maneuver. We haven't seen our own dog in more than a week, so it was really nice to have some doggie energy present for the day.

After a good climb to the top of the ridges east of downtown, we zoomed back toward Boise on the hard-packed singletrack that makes these trails so much fun. We weaved through golden grasslands that were alive with the crazy morning light that had been created from the forest fire haze.

Near the perigee of the trail system, our ride ducked into thick trees and lush green grass that hung near the edge of a creek. The dark cold woods were a stark contrast to the brightly lit trails above and provided a perfect way to end the ride. Our short romp had ended too soon, and it was tough to say goodbye to Al and his hounds. It would have been great to have had more time for more rides. Boise hospitality is second to none.

People in Boise love their bikes! This town of 200,000 seems to have a higher-than-average number of people out riding from what we could tell. In addition to hundreds of miles of trails in the immediate vicinity, Boise's heart also includes a greenbelt that runs along the river and offers wide paved trails from one end of the city to the other. Because the greenbelt lets riders and hikers avoid roads, lots of people use their bikes and feet for transportation and the downtown was thick with people on two wheels at all times of day.

Not only do people love to ride bikes, they love to ride really cool vintage bikes. On any given day you can find bike classics locked to racks in the downtown area. It's not unusual to catch a glimpse of a beautifully restored Schwinn Ace, DX or Excelsior or any other manner of classic bike. My personal favorite was finding an old J.C. Higgins (stripped of the ornamental tank, but not the old chain guard) locked to lamp post near a downtown deli. Who'd have thought I'd one day be coveting a Sears and Roebuck bicycle?

After our ride with Al, we had to get ready in a hurry. Kristi had scheduled us for yet another adventure. And for me it was another first. I had never been rafting before, so I was jazzed to hear that Kristi had set us all up for a ride down the Payette river.

We raced to Cascade Raft and Kayak, located about a half hour north of Horseshoe Bend. We arrived just in the nick of time, and we ran to board the bus that would carry us to the put-in point on the Payette.

I looked around the bus and made mental notes about who I would not like to be trapped on a raft with. Others were doing the same thing and I saw a couple of scowls and head shakes when certain eyes rested on me.

Luckily for us, we were a group of six, so we got our own raft. We also lucked out and got the best guide of the bunch, a competent and friendly character named Jeff B.

The river was calm for the most part, but the rapids were noisy enough to conceal the fart of surprise I unleashed while spinning through one of the more exciting rapids. Of course, Caroline and I got the front of the raft. That meant the two novices were leading our expedition. But I provided a big enough human shield to help keep Max, Kristi's youngest son, pretty dry throughout the trip.

We enjoyed a picnic lunch at the end of the raft ride and I felt at least five years younger.

Back in downtown Boise, we enjoyed some great nightlife. On the first Thursday of each month, businesses—including The Chocolat Bar, Boise's premier chocolatier—stay open late and the entire downtown area gets swept up in a festival-like atmosphere of drinking, dining and dancing. I was treated to a personal belly dance outside of one establishment. On the other hand, maybe she was treated to a personal audience from me because she started giggling immediately. Maybe it was the smear of chocolate on my face.

We had no idea going into Boise, but the town is pretty hip. The community has dedicated substantial funding toward bike trails and other non-automobile transportation improvements, and, by and large, it's a safe and clean community. Better still, it's one of two islands of liberal thought inside a traditionally Conservative state. No wonder it was fun!

If you can, be sure to attend Boise's downtown Farmer's Market each Saturday. At this garden of delights, you can find locally and regionally grown produce, cheeses, baked goods and other treats. We enjoyed several pints of fresh berries of all kinds, which were a nice change from traditional road treats like beef jerky and pretzels. Not only are they healthier, but berries produce much less wind than traditional snacks. That's a positive when you're spending hours inside an enclosed air-conditioned vehicle. I'd attribute my condition as a side effect of the recent Crippling Mystery Illness, but those of you who know me know better.

Of course, after spending several days with good friends having great times, it's difficult to say goodbye. As has been a theme with this journey, you never know when you'll have the chance to do things again, so you have to enjoy your surroundings when you can. The same seems to be true with people.

Life tends to scatter our loved ones to the Four Winds as time goes by. If we are blessed, we find ourselves traveling the currents of fate toward the areas where our loved ones have settled and we're able to see them again. Only a fool fails to relish such reunions with unbridled gusto. I'm pleased to say we were not fools this time around.

And with luck, we won't be next time, either.

See you on down the road.

Action-packed Boise

Part II: In which we grab life by the horns

BOISE, Idaho—We stayed with our wonderful friends Kristi and Chris while in Boise. They are proprietors of a most excellent chocolate shop, the Chocolat Bar, which specializes in some of the tastiest confections in North America. Each confection is made by hand with love and laughter in their downtown Boise shop.

The Chocolat Bar's signature lemon-lavendar almond bark is sinfully delicious, although I found myself with an extreme weakness for the cherry and dark-chocolate caramels. They might be much better than a power bar on a long bike ride through the mountains, although it would be much better to eat them in a civilized locale.

We had seen Kristi and Chris for mere moments before we headed out on our ride at Bogus Basin, so we had not had time to catch up on things before we left. We did not return until just before 11 p.m. My arm was still raw and dirt covered and weeping buckets of an unsettling clearish ooze.

I crawled into the shower and began the hideous task of cleaning out my wound. An unholy poultice of dirt, pebbles and plant matter was smashed into the flesh on the lower part of my forearm just above the elbow. I used plenty of soap and friction to debride my arm. The evening quiet inside the home was interrupted by a mournful low-pitched howl emanating from the bathroom.

Thankfully we had remembered to pack the first aid kit. Two extra-large swatches of sterile gauze spared me from sticking to the nice clean sheets that evening. The next morning we awoke early. Kristi had signed us up for a morning of adventure!

These days I'm starting to appreciate that life must be lived when you can. My recent bout with the Crippling Mystery Illness reminded me of how fragile life can be, and that fortunes can change without warning as quick as a wink. Without such an epiphany, I might have balked at Kristi's suggestion for a day of fun, but now we jumped at the opportunity without hesitation.

A little while later we found ourselves in Horseshoe Bend, Idaho, at Zip Idaho, a new business offering zip line tours to the masses. A zip line is a long expanse of cable that you clip onto with a tiny pulley mechanism and harness system. A big guy like me can reach speeds of up to 50 miles per hour on the 1,800 foot line that spans a small canyon northeast of Horseshoe Bend.

After a short briefing, we found ourselves practicing our zip line skills in a series of short spans up in the trees. It was fantastic! Call it crazy, but I found it inherently easy to step off the platform high above the ground and go zipping over to the next tree.

I found it even easier running like a crazy person and launching myself over the edge of the canyon on the long zip line. The only sad part is 1,800 feet goes by surprisingly quickly at 50 mph.

Zip lining is something you can do with a big wad of gauze on your arm or with a bruised or cracked rib, assuming you can use the arm on the good side of your body to hold onto the harness. While it's probably not an appropriate activity for everyone, it's appropriate for any able-bodied soul to try at least once.

Afterward we felt like astronauts or elite explorers; we had experienced something totally new and exciting that not everyone gets a chance to try. What a rare privilege.

Life must be lived while you can. Fortunes can change as quick as a wink. Carpe diem as they say.

See you on down the road.

Bloody, bloody Boise

Part 1: In which I become the turd in the punch bowl

BOISE, Idaho—It was a long drive from Stanley to Boise. We were hoping for a quick drive over the mountains. Instead, the breathtaking scenery of the backside of the Sawtooth Mountains and the Payette River rushing in the canyon bottom below compelled us to ease up on the gas pedal and meander our way toward our next destination.

An inviting back road lured us to a tiny lodge tucked on the banks of the Payette in the middle of nowhere, and we took mental notes that this rustic collection of ramshackle cabins would be a fabulous place to stay when we were old and grey. We made it back to the main road again after watching the Payette zoom beneath us on a rickety bridge. Birds chirped pleasently in the trees and Caroline provided color commentary on the region's history from one of our many guidebooks.

Despite being cramped again in the car, we were still feeling the after glow of Fisher Creek. The ride the day before had made us groggy and our legs were pleasantly tired, but we were both still blissed out after our experience. Moreover, with temperatures in Boise expected to rise above 100 degrees, we were in no hurry to exit the pleasant coolness of the mountains. So we slowly snaked our way back to civilization.

Despite being on vacation, we did have an appointment to keep. We were meeting two riders in Boise for a preview of some of the town's better trails. At just after 5 p.m. we met Dave and Al as promised in a parking lot at the base of Bogus Basin ski area. The blast-furnace heat got me to staggering when I exited the vehicle to shake the hands of our new guides. A two-pump handshake caused a torrent to pour from my brow.

We decided that in this heat, the higher the ride, the better off we'd be. So we saddled up and drove to the top of Bogus Basin.

Dave and Al are extremely affable fellows, and we were very chatty at the trail head in anticipation of the ride ahead. Dave looked like one of those cycling fanatics who finishes near the top during weekly club rides out in the park.

Al's legs were like mighty tree trunks. I recalled reading some bike magazine a while back that listed the Top 10 greatest myths about biking (the magazine was not Mountain Flyer, as we would never stoop so low as to waste paper on such inane drivel). One of those "myths" was that you could never use the size of a person's leg to judge their riding ability. See? Inane drivel! Clearly Al's legs were able to carry him places most people would fear.

Looking at Dave and Al and knowing that I still had not entirely shaken the Crippling Mystery Illness, I had no doubt in my mind I was going to get my ass handed to me on this ride. It didn't help my confidence much when I immediately had to change my tire tube after it had gone flat apparently without cause. The tire had ridden fine the day before, and Fisher Creek was free of pricklies for the most part.

As I changed the tire, Dave and Al explained that the Bogus Basin area holds some of Boise's best riding. On this day we chose the Eastside area to ride—a place that offered classic wilderness singletrack with just enough technical bits thrown in to keep you on your toes. Al would be riding it on a rigid singlespeed 29er.

We gleefully rode the narrow singletrack. The deep woods and late hour made things much cooler than downtown Boise had been. Dave an Al graciously put up with every request I threw out for photos, even if it happened to mess up the flow of ride. I was hoping to get the photos out of the way early on so we could concentrate on the trail. For the most part we did, and pretty soon I was feeling warmed up and looking forward to much more singletrack ahead.

Because both of our guides had played a heavy role in establishment and construction of the trails up at Bogus Basin and elsewhere in Boise, they were eager to show off the area, although both were extremely modest when it came to taking credit for their hard work.

I was starting to feel at my best as we made our way through a newly rerouted section of trail. The singletrack was steady, but extremely narrow. Nevertheless, I rode confidently, even managing to keep Caroline in sight for the most part.

Suddenly, my pedal caught the remnants of a sawed off stick on the downstroke—the only time it could have done anyone any harm. Fate had lined my crank arm up with a one-in-a-million chance of disaster, and I felt my back wheel start sliding out toward the outside of the heavily exposed section of trail. My brain went about making corrections for the skid just as my front wheel slammed against another small-diameter stump nubbin on the outside of the trail. Being the unwitting dweller in the middle of a perfect storm, I felt myself being viciously slammed to the ground. It happened so quickly that I had no time to land gracefuly. I was hurled to the ground like a sack of rotten potatoes. By happenstance I managed to get a finger on my bike as it began its descent over the edge, saving it from a long fall.

A firey pain gripped my forearm and leg. I ventured a peek at my arm and saw the crimson reminder that mountain biking is an inherently dangerous sport.

I tried to be good natured as I picked myself up and continued the ride, but, truth be told, the crash hurt like a bitch, so it didn't take long before my normally good-natured side retreated away from the forefront of my consciousness. I rode in silence at the back of the pack. I felt terrible for Al and Dave, who undoubtedly felt terrible for me.

About the time the adrenaline from the crash started to wear off—when the pain really starts to set in—we began the long climb out of the canyon. Rides in this area are bowl-like, and most begin and end with climbs. The firey burn of plants rubbing the raw area of my scraped and bloody leg gave way to a new pain: the annoying stitch of a cracked or bruised rib. The dire new pain hit just as we passed the carcass of an elk that reportedly had been eaten by a wolf that haunts the area.

"Great, I'm wounded and bleeding and at the back of the pack," I thought to myself. I started to go over my wolf defense strategies in my mind as I made the long ascent.

Needless to say, the excitement back at the trail head was missing when I finally grunted my way up and over the final push to the car. Here I was, the ride casualty for the day, the turd in the punchbowl, if you will. It is an uncomfortable position to be in—even with people you know well. I weakly apologized to my gracious hosts. The warm looks on their faces let me know that no apologies were necessary.

Half an hour later, at the bottom of Bogus Basin, a delicious glass of stout and a hearty helping of spicy chicken wings helped me feel almost normal again, and we enjoyed talking to Dave for much longer than he probably expected.

Not only are Boise's trails awesome, but so are its people. It is a friendly, friendly town. I'm hoping my scabs dry out soon so I can do some more riding around here. Only time will tell.

See you on down the road, and if I happen to meet you on the trail, I'll be sure to give you a wide berth. Hasta la Vista, babies.

Diggin' Stanley

STANLEY, Idaho—We wound our way north out of Sun Valley up a narrow mountain road toward the mountains. Above us, gathering gray rain clouds made the ascent seem a little foreboding as we headed toward Stanley, Idaho, a less civilized destination compared to the comfortable opulence of Sun Valley. The skies sagged with a thick measure of moisture and we braced for the coming onslaught, regretting that we hadn't brought anything to cover the saddles of our bikes.

About halfway up Galena pass, we hit the first rain—a steady drizzle that made it seem like the monsoon season had started early here in Idaho. But just minutes later the shower ended and the clouds began to thin. Soon enough the air was dry again. The rain we had experienced seemed like nothing more than a brief mirage in the oppressive heat that had settled over the region.

We stopped briefly at the Galena Lodge for a cup of coffee and to drop off a few copies of Mountain Flyer to the little bike shop/sporting goods niche that had been created at one end of the establishment. Lodge owners have carved an impressive array of trails into the thick woods up here. On July 26th, mountain bike racers from all over the region will compete in the sixth-annual Galena Grinder, part of the region's Knobby Tire Series. The Grinder includes a cross country race and a marathon on the gnarly trails near the top of the pass. Some $2,000 in prize money is at stake for the race, which seems to get bigger each year.

Unfortunately for us, our schedule didn't permit us to sample Galena's singletrack.

Over the top of the pass we could see Stanley in the valley below. The tiny community sits quietly in the shadow of the Sawtooth Mountains along the cold, churning waters of the Salmon River. While it would be easy to brand the area as an outdoors paradise this time of year, one look at the Sawtooth peaks to the west—with their still-generous packing of winter snow—betrays the area's arduous winters.

Only about 90 people call the area home year 'round. Winters in Stanley are some of the coldest in the nation, and mountains of snow paralyze the community in a state of suspended animation all winter long. The worst winters close the passes in and out of Stanley, leaving residents to fend for themselves in the biting cold sometimes for weeks at a time.

But on this day Stanley was dressed as a fetching summer maiden. Colorful wildflowers punctuated her lush green meadows with shocks of purple, yellow, red and blue. These florets flooded the valley with an inescapable aroma so sweet and pure that you could almost hear it as a high-pitched buzz—as odd and unlikely as that may seem.

We settled into the wonderfully comfortable Valley Creek Motel and RV park, a strange little paradise in a town so tiny. We thought because of its size, Stanley would be home to rundown "rustic" cabins or unsettling little murder motels, but the Valley Creek was a clean, spacious sanctuary that offered a quaint kitchenette and stunning views of the Sawtooth mountains.

After a restful night of sleep in the cold mountain air (morning temperatures were in the high 30s), we were saddened to watch the morning skies darken as dense rains moved in from every direction. Soon the entire valley was drenched. We wrote off the possibilities of riding for the day and dejectedly searched through the tiny general store for a deck of cards after eating an outstanding breakfast at the Sawtooth Bakery.

A while later we happened upon a pair of young mountain bikers in one of the local stores. We gave them a couple of copies of Mountain Flyer and asked them about rides in the area. Because of the rains, we thought we'd have to ride Fisher Creek—Stanley's signature trail—the next morning, which would have created a time pinch for us, particularly since my riding skills are still pathetically weak as I continue to slowly recover from the Crippling Mystery Illness

The bike dudes looked at the drying skies and encouraged us to ride the trail that day. As dry as it had been, the rains would not create any mud and actually would firm up the trails nicely, they said. Not only that, but the cool air would make the nine-mile climb almost palatable.

We changed our plans on the spot and soon we found ourselves at the trailhead and ready to ride.

If you've never ridden Fisher Creek, I believe it really is one of those epic rides that everyone should do at least once in their lives. Although everyone says it's a downhill ride, you shouldn't go into it half cocked. The first part of the trail is a nine-mile climb up a fire road. Your efforts are instantly rewarded with a swooping plunge down some tight singletrack through an area that was severely burned in 2005. Brightly colored flowers are a stark contrast to the blackened sticks that remain in the burned area. It's a strange juxtoposition of life and death that is inspiring and humbling.

Most people don't talk about it, but after the first descent you have to climb again for quite a while until you reach the epic ride down that makes the trail famous. There are not many places to ride that offer an uninterrupted three miles of swooping downhill through nice dark forest (this part wasn't burned). The ride just keeps going and going and going, and pretty soon it almost seems as if you're asleep and dreaming of ripping down an amazing singletrack fantasy land. Simply amazing is all I can say.

The descent spits you out in a meadow, where you have to make a short climb before the last mile of super-fun downhill back to the trailhead. This is the type of singletrack that God dreamed of when he was creating humans who would ride bikes. Or something like that.

Because the sun doesn't set up here until outrageously late in the day, we had plenty of daylight left to goof off in around the area before dark.

Once twilight arrived, slumber was easy and fast, particularly after our ride at Fisher Creek.

One good thing about Idaho's undercurrent of geologic turmoil is that there are plenty of hot springs. There are several in the Stanley area alone. The next morning, with the valley socked in under a cold fog, we decided to give our legs a treat by visiting one of the more convenient ones at the crack of dawn.

Just off the highway in lower Stanley, someone has taken an old oak barrel and plopped it at the edge of the Salmon River. A pipe out of the rocks pumps scalding water into the tub, and here you can soak away your troubles with little effort.

We found the waters luxurious, if not a little too hot. But with the air temperature outside hovering just below 40 degrees, the tub was an incredible treat. Partway through our soak, a mink ventured toward us, only to be driven away by the sight of my man-boobies. Thanks to them we've found a lot of solitude this trip, although I am hesitant to brandish them unless absolutely necessary.

See you on down the road.